Wednesday, October 12, 2005

today's foodie must-reads

the dining section of the times has a great article, naming 1985 as a seminal year in new york restaurant history. you'll read about almost all the big players in this piece and see what their experience, efforts, and relationships wrought. it's good reading for foodies and nyers.

it called to mind a fabulous evening i had, many years ago, at
montrachet. a birthday celebration with my then boyfriend. as i think on it now, it was my first "real" fancy dinner date, everything about it was significant and romantic. we got all dolled up, hopped in a cab "all the way down" to tribeca, a neighborhood that i was completely new to and enthralled by. a painted sign in the window told us were at the right place, but the restaurant was so unassuming, we had a moment of doubt.

inside, it was just as simple, quiet, and elegant.

it might have been the first time i truly tasted and drank wine with pleasure. and it didn't take long before i was flushed, tipsy, over the moon and overwhelmed, which meant that when the waiter asked what i wanted to eat, i said, please bring me whatever you recommend. he asked if i would eat foie gras. i said yes, that would be wonderful.

out came my appetizer, looking exactly like...a liver. and it was the size of a kitten. and completely unadorned. no accoutrement. no side salad, not even a decorative sprig. just a shiny plate for that fat foie to rest on. it was bold. crazy.

and so we ate it with gusto and drank some more. surely there were entrees and dessert afterwards, but I hardly remember them. in the wake of the foie gras, my first foie gras, the details of the rest of the meal blurred.

the next day it's rich, muddy taste was alarmingly palpable. but to this day, i remember my night at montrachet in the fondest, funniest way.


oh, and
the boston globe offers some insight into what it might be like to be a restaurant critic.

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